The day your plants arrive is very exciting. We've created this section to help make sure you are ready when they arrive.
BEFORE YOUR PLANTS ARRIVE
It's important that you have proper growing space, pot, and media ready for your plants before they arrive. This way, you can immediately pot the plants up. If you can not immediately pot the plants up, you can keep them in their bags at room temperature for a few days, out of direct sunlight. Also, know that pets, especially cats, love plants. So make sure they are protected from inquisitive members of your family. It's best though to pot the plants up the day you receive them.
OPENING THE BOX
Be careful when opening the box. Using knives to open the box from the top can cause the blade to enter to deeply into the box and slash the plants.
Cut the tape on the box from the sides first.
Once the sides have been cut, open the box by cutting upwards. This will keep the knife from entering the box.
UNPACKING THE BOX
Once you have the box open, proceed to remove the contents carefully. You will likely spot your invoice folded at the top of the box. (Not Shown here, but this is where your invoice will likely be found.)
The rest of the box will be filled with the plants (wrapped in newspaper), and newspaper filler.
Carefully remove the contents, and try not to squeeze the cocoon wrappings in which contain the plants, as this can easily cause growth tips to be snapped.
Place any newspaper filler back into the box for now, so that everything can be kept together just in case you cant locate a plant that should have been in the order. It's much easier to have everything together if that happens, as it likely means that a plant was overlooked within the filler material.
Carefully open the wrapped plants up from their newspaper cocoons. Sometimes we will pack multiple plants into one newspaper cocoon, so don't be alarmed if you ordered quite a few plants and only see a few wrapped cocoons. We do this in order to secure the plants better in transit.
Once all of the plants have been removed, compare them with your invoice to make sure you have everything accounted for. The CP Jungle has a unique Plant ID for every plant we have in stock, which makes it virtually impossible that we fail to ship a plant. We can not complete an order without assigning every plant on your order the plant ID we are shipping. If you can't locate a plant, go back through the filler material in the box. This is why it's best to unpack, keep everything together, and account for all of the plants. If you can't find a plant, you will have all the box contents right at hand to go back thru in order to locate the lost plant.
Each Nepenthes will be individually bagged, and will contain a plant tag with its unique Plant ID. The plant ID will also show on your invoice. You can also see this information online by going into your order history and click the "details" button for this order. Each Plant ID will be listed, and you can click the plant id's to see the history for each plant.
UNBAGGING THE PLANTS
Before unbagging your plants, take a look at the bag and check to see if there is a rubber band securing the root zone of the plant to the main plant bag. (Shown here by the yellow arrow.) If it is, carefully remove this rubber band. This rubber band exists to keep the plant from moving in the bag. We normally use this rubber band only when the root zone is relatively heavy (normally due to some amount of sphagnum being present in the root zone). This keeps the plant from moving in the bag, which coupled with a heavy root zone, could cause the growth tip to snap.
Once you have removed the outer rubber band if it exists, open the bag by untying the top of the bag. Try not to tear open the bag, as you may need it to bag the plant after potting it up.
Carefully remove the plant from the bag, and try not to bend the leaves. Also, try to support the Nepenthes pitchers as best you can. Some Nepenthes species, such N. rafflesiana, can easily have their pitcher connection to the tendril torn.
Once the plant is removed from its plastic bag, check to see if the root zone is enclosed in its own smaller plastic bag. If it is, check to see if there is a rubber band securing this smaller plastic bag to the root zone. (Shown here by the yellow arrow) If there is, carefully remove it. Carefully remove the small plastic bag if it exists.
If the root ball has a rubber band around it and the moss that surrounds it, LEAVE THIS RUBBER BAND IN PLACE. This rubber band is used because the root system only has a few attachments which fan out, and these type of attachments are VERY EASILY SHEERED OFF if you attempt to remove the soil from the root system. Pot the plant up with this root ball and rubber band in place.
Some plants are shipped with their roots (or the entire plant) wrapped in a moist paper towel. Be very careful removing the paper towel, as the roots can sometimes entangle in the towel and get torn.
Now its time to pot the plant up. Take a look at the length of the roots. We want to pot the plant as deep as possible, so we need to guage how deep of a hole in the soil we need to make to accommodate the plant.
A quick note about the roots of Nepenthes. Many lowlanders have rather extensive root systems. Most highlanders, especially those which naturally grow epiphytically, can have much smaller root zones than their lowland counterparts. These are general statements, as some highlanders such as N. rajah have extensive, thick, and deep root systems. But as a general rule, this is the case. A giant highlander might have a rather small looking root system, but most large lowlanders will have an extensive and deep root system.
Make a hole by removing some soil from the pot the plant will be placed into so that the plant can easily slide into the hole that was made. We want to pot the plant as deeply as we can. If your Nepenthes arrives with a rather long stem without leaves, try to bury as much of this stem as possible. Roots will shoot from the newly buried area, and the entire plant is more stabilized in the pot.
Drop the plant into the hole as deep as you can get it.
If you are using long fiber sphagnum for your medium, lean the plant to one side and stuff a generous amount of moss on one side. If you are not using long fiber sphagnum, then fill the pot up with media, packing it slightly around the roots.
If you are using long fiber sphagnum, then lean the plant back to the other side, and pack another generous amount of wet sphagnum moss into the opposite side of the pot. Using sopping wet sphagnum in this manner will "lock" the plant into place, so that it is held securely and will not move around in its pot.
Using the bag the plant was shipped in, place the entire plant and pot into the bag and tie it at the top. There are two reasons for doing this. Plants that are not hardened off at our location (ie: pre-order plants that arrive direct from the vendors) may need to be hardened off further in order to accomadate your growing environment, especially if your humidity is on the low side. But even plants that are hardened off by us before shipping benefit from being bagged, as this allows time for the root system to begin functioning at 100% before they are exposed to general growing conditions. Bagging also helps plants which hate being transplanted to adapt more quickly, without being set back nearly as much as not being bagged.
Place the plant in a well lit area, but out of direct light so that the plant does not overheat in the bag. Keep the bag enclosed for two weeks.
After two weeks have passed, untie the bag.
After a few more days, lightly open the bag.
After a few more days, open the bag even further.
After a few more days, remove the plant from the bag.
Slowly acclimate the plant to higher light levels. If you are growing under lights, then the plants normally dont need to be acclimated to the lights. If you are growing using sunlight, then gradually increase the light levels to the plant over a few weeks ni order not to burn the leaves.